There are easy-breezy cookbooks that focus on short recipes and time-savers and then there are cookbooks that are teaching tools, travel companions, and story-tellers. The Cuisines of Germany by Horst Scharfenberg belongs to the latter category, for adventurous cooks, food historians, and those wanting to learn more about their German roots. Unfortunately out of print by now, it's worth checking out of the library or looking for in used bookstores.Written by a native Frankfurter for English-speaking audiences when Germany was divided into East and West, The Cuisines of Germany is a serious study of regional traditions and a love letter to Heimat. Even if you never make any of the recipes (but you'll want to!), the book provides hours of absorbing reading. Food writer and television presenter Scharfenberg knows the regions, cooking, and history of Germany and takes the reader on a travelogue of memory and custom.
The book opens with a 75-page ethnography of the 16 culinary regions of Germany for background, explaining how culinary customs evolved and comparing regional variations among shared dishes. The recipes are then divided by types of dish, starting with soups and ending with desserts and drinks. 19th century-style lithographs of food, kitchen scenes, and the skylines of famous German cities appear throughout for illustration, giving the book a nostalgic Farmer's Almanac feel, but there are no illustrations of how the dishes themselves will look after making, which may be a drawback to the beginner.
Included with the recipes are regional origins and further historical details taken from contemporary cookbooks and personal documents. For example, in the section for Gänsebraten (roast goose), he talks about the dish's association with the Mecklenburg and Pomerania regions and includes a guidebook's tips for how to make use of the inedible parts of the goose. In several cases, he translates directly from the historical source, including a recipe for Duck with Pomegranate juice taken from a 1795 publication, The Magdeburg Cookbook for Beginning Housewives, Housekeepers, and Cooks. And he explains how the events of the Thirty Years War influenced the development of a beef stew called Bifflamot (or Böfflamot) from the French boeuf à la mode. Also a nice touch are the allusions and quotations from relevant literary and artistic figures associated with a particular dish or region.
Although the book is probably best geared toward those with mid-level cooking skills or previous experience with German cuisine, there are recipes for the beginner or casual cook, like Berlin's famous dish, the Stolzer Heinrich (Proud Henry), a bratwurst in beer sauce, and Königsberger Klopse (meatballs) that can be made on a weekend without too much time and fuss. Also handy is a map of Germany in the front and a U.S.-European measuring conversion table in the back.
Unless you have a lot of leisure time, these recipes aren't practical for everyday living but they are great for special occasions and parties… or if you have a German sweetie and you want to impress the in-laws with your savvy at wrangling Saumagen.







